Bexley Declares War on Woolwich

In March this year, I read in the Evening Standard that Bexley residents were kicking up a fuss about being included in a new Woolwich constituency (see here: https://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/we-are-not-with-the-woolwich-genteel-bexley-fights-boundary-shakeup-a3482321.html).

'We have history' they say.

'We have class' they say.

Well, I've got news for you Bexley - so do we!

Our so-called 'undesirable' Woolwich is full of hidden gems - and you're missing out. But let me wave the white flag for a moment, I'm not seeking battle. I just came to say that there's perhaps lots more to discover than the fact that Woolwich was the first UK home for McDonald's.

Royal Arsenal FC 1888 

Woolwich has a history more rich than is widely known. The once booming dockyard brought with it trade from across the world, new foods, new materials - most of which can be found in market stalls and supermarkets in the centre today. (Note: The fruit stalls sell the best blueberries I've ever tasted). The eclectic mix of cultures, religions and language are celebrated here and the town has even had a bid accepted for a new creative district, repurposing it's historic facade into performance spaces, studios and arts spaces that look to celebrate our diversity.

Woolwich Arsenal, speaks for itself. It saw the beginnings of Arsenal Football Club - which began as a munition workers' team in 1886 in Woolwich (then part of Kent) - and reconnected with its routes with the arrival of one of their best strikers of all time, Woolwich-born, Ian Wright who scored 184 goals in his time. But it also tells a deeper story about our city - one of trade unions, workers, class, poverty, wealth, piety, industrialism, beautification and so much more.

Silvertown and Woolwich, Black Saturday

Its factories and military might became major targets in the world wars because of their success. During WW1 the Arsenal employed close to 80,000 people, storing ordnance and manufacturing ammunitions. Such was the demand, in 1915 the government built the 1300 home Well Hall Estate in Eltham to accommodate the workforce. Black Saturday, 7th Sept 1940, is officially recognised as the first day of the Blitz - and its bombings left the warehouses and armouries of Woolwich ablaze. Vast areas of Poplar, Woolwich, Limehouse, Millwall, Stepney, Rotherthithe and Surrey Docks became a raging inferno. Thousands of Auxiliary Fire-fighters joined the London Brigade to battle the flames. It's hard to know what our munitions might have looked like through the world wars, without the workforce of Woolwich Arsenal.

Speaking of fires, Woolwich Fire Station can still be seen at 24, Sunbury, Woolwich. Built in 1887 by the architect Robert Pearsall it was one of London's oldest operational fire stations until it closed in 2014.

Woolwich Piers, 1838 'Records of Woolwich District Vol I, W T Vincent'

The early origins of the Arsenal lie with the creation of a dockyard in Woolwich by Henry VIII. The yard, located to the East of the present ferry terminal was originally built for the construction of 'The Great Harry' - a great ship of the King's fleet (now also the name of a popular pub in Woolwich town centre). Land further east of the dockyard, known as 'The Warren' was also used for testing guns and a gun wharf was constructed in 1546. Over the years it included an ammunition lab, gun foundry, carriage works, ordnance stores and was home from 1720 to a military academy, and in the 1770s a military repository, later removed to Woolwich common. Most of the old buildings can still be seen today, many having been converted into apartments and museums and it's hard to walk far in Woolwich without running into a gate pillar or two to the old arsenal, the old steam factory chimneys or some aptly named streets such as Gallions Reach, once the name of the tidal channel passing through Woolwich.

A visit to the Woolwich Firepower Museum and the Docklands Museum in Canary Wharf, pieces together a history Bexley should wish to be part of.
SOURCES:
http://blitzwalkers.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/black-saturday-and-first-day-of-blitz.html
http://www.royal-arsenal-history.com/royal-arsenal-timeline.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Arsenal

There's more of course. The Woolwich foot tunnel, opened in 1912, connects us to the North Woolwich dwellings of East London, home to the suffragettes and workers' unions. Royal Victoria Gardens is a nice bit of quiet. Opened by London County Council in 1890, the former marshland had been acquired by George Bidder's North Woolwich Land Company in the 1840s. In 1851 the proprietor of the Pavilion Hotel opened tea gardens and crowds of visitors were attracted to its entertainments. The site was thankfully saved from development, though was badly damaged in the Blitz. The riverside terraces survive today and festivals, markets and performances have returned to the location.
SOURCE: http://www.londongardensonline.org.uk/gardens-online-record.php?ID=NEW027

Back South, fathers and sons spend weekends fishing in the disused dry docks and there are cannons dotted along the Thames Path to remind us of the area's heritage. In addition, St Peter's Roman Catholic Church on Woolwich new Road is one of only three A.W. Pugin churches in London. Built in 1842, it's a rare work by the architect who helped pioneer the Gothic Revival movements and went on to design the interior of the Palace of Westminster that houses our central government.

The houses at 18 and 19 Green's End, Woolwich are rare 1780s examples, peaking out from behind the Elephant and Castle pub at the Beresford Square Market. The Old Woolwich baths, on Bathway, opened in 1894 with 2 large pools and 52 private baths. They closed in 1982 when Waterfront Leisure Centre was built (now owned by 'Better') and the building is now part of Greenwich University and home to the Bathway Theatre (http://www.bathwaytheatre.co.uk/).

The nearby Tramshed Theatre also has origins elsewhere. It began as a generating station in 1916, powering trams in the area until they ceased to run 1953. It then became a music and comedy venue hosting Kool and the Gang, Billy Bragg, Harry Enfield and John Otway. It remains open to this day as a performance space for Greenwich and Lewisham's Young People's Theatre. The Beatles and Buddy Holly played at the former Granada cinema coined 'The most romantic theatre ever built' and is known now as 'The New Wine Church'.

Charlton Park, Charlton House and Maryon Wilson Park are nearby boasting their own histories and community activities. The Maryon-Wilson family were in residence at Charlton House between 1767 and 1923 and in 1889 Sir Spencer Maryon-Wilson opened Maryon Park, referred to as the 'lung of Charlton', on the site of ancient woodland known as 'Hanging Wood' and land that had been used for sand quarrying from the early 18th century. A large hill fort was excavated here in 1915 where pottery dating from the 1st to 5th century was found. All that's left is the ridge at the top of the hill otherwise destroyed by quarrying. In the 1920s, 'Hanging Wood' was formally presented to the public (London County Council) to form Maryon Wilson Park. The family donated a herd of deer - the descendants of which can still be seen there today. The family also gave Charlton House to Greenwich Borough Council. The park looked particularly spectacular in the snow this year.
SOURCES:
http://www.charltonparks.co.uk/the-parks/charlton-house-estate/
http://www.londongardensonline.org/gardens-online-record.asp?ID=GRN033
http://www.visitgreenwich.org.uk/things-to-do/meet-maryon-wilson-animals/

Severndroog Castle, 1801

The Royal Artillery Barracks, in use for over 200yrs, are here too, opposite St. George's Chapel which was badly bombed during the war and the ruins are left as a reminder. The Greenwich Docklands International Festival held a stunning performance of 5 Soldiers here in the Summer. Woolwich is still home to the King's Troop saluting battery and horses, the 2nd Battalion of the Princess of Wales' Royal Regiment and the 1st Battalion of the Royal Anglian Regiment and the site is due to close in 2028, which will be a sad moment of farewell to the area's ongoing military ties.

Woolwich Common, technically still a designated military training area, is a great route for a run or dog walk (and a stones throw from A&E should you injure yourself). And a short walk up Shooters Hill on the Woolwich boundary brings you to Severndroog Castle, begun in 1784 by Lady James of Eltham, the widow of Commodore Sir William James who died the previous year. Sir William had in 1755 attacked and destroyed the island fortress of Suvarnadurg on the Western coast of India helping to consolidate the British position in India.

Woolwich is within walking distance of Blackheath for Bonfire Night and gives access to the tidal Thames for evening walks - I even spotted seals frolicking in the wake of the ferry in September.

Let us not forget the Thames Barrier, operational since 1984, preventing the flood plain of Greater London from flooding over 180 times since its first operation, and protecting central London and predicted to do so until at least 2070. It may not be historic nor everyone's architectural favourite, but it was an engineering feat that should be celebrated and there are gardens to meet it at either bank. I quite enjoy watching outrageously sized cruise ships navigate their way through the barrier with only a small tug either end too.

SS Princess Alice

Our watery history isn't, I must admit, entirely celebratory. On 3 September 1878, the pleasure boat 'Princess Alice' was struck and smashed in two by the 890 ton Bywell Castle - killing 650 people - and apparently remaining Britain's worst public transport disaster in peacetime or war. The paddle steamer sank in under 4 minutes and despite attempts at rescue from the Bywell Castle, many drowned in water and raw sewage, the sleuce gates having been opened just an hour before.  120 of the victims were buried in rows at Woolwich cemetery behind a memorial cross in the Irish style, paid for by sixpenny subscription from 23,000 donors. The cross can still be seen today and a memorial to the Prince Alice and its deceased can be found in nearby Rockliffe Gardens. Also found nearby is William Barefoot Gardens, named after Frances Street born SE London politician who was three times the Mayor of Woolwich and who died of a heart attack in Woolwich Town Hall Council Chamber in Nov 1941. Barefoot had been instrumental in the creation of the Well Hall Pleasaunce, Eltham as a public park and gardens (another of my favourite places) and a plaque erected in Sept 1942 can be found there today reading: 'He loved nature and his efforts to beautify Woolwich are reflected in the creation of this Pleasaunce'.

Tom Cribb

The present St Mary Magdalene Church, was built in 1732 and tells a story of Woolwich as an early Christian settlement upon which site the first church is believed to be pre-10th/11th century - so we have our own claim to Norman history. Its churchyard is now a public park with the tomb of 19th century world champion bare-knuckle boxer, Tom Cribb still visible.

The clock house (once the home and office of the Admiral-Superintendent of the dockyard in the 1780s) on Defiance Walk, a street name fit to define the spirit of its historical residents, is one of the grander remaining buildings and not far from an unassuming subway tunnel explaining the deeper history of the place.

Along the Thames path see if you can spot the mosaics, marked 'Riverside Walk Project 1984-1986' by the National Elfrida Rathbone Society. Around it are listed the months of the year. Steps to the left, have sculpted fish in the stonework. Elfrida was an educationist and believed that all children were capable of learning. She was the cousin of Eleanor Rathbone an MP and long-term campaigner for women's rights. Her work informed the formation of the Rathbone Society in 1969 now incorporated into the Rathbone charity.  The Riverside Walk at Woolwich was decorated with mosaics as part of an arts workshop based at the clock house.

Woolwich Ferry circa. 1925

Woolwich Ferry has quite a history too - dating back to the early 1300s when Woolwich was a fishing village and the town had the right to run a ferry. In 1811 an Act of Parliament was passed to establish a ferry across the Thames from Woolwich. It was run by The Woolwich Ferry Company whose shareholders included the Lady of the manor, Dame Jan Wilson and her son Sr John Maryon Wilson. It seems the Maryon-Wilson's were extremely forward thinking and we have quite a lot to thank them for. It continued to operate until 1844 when the company was dissolved.

Street Parades on opening of Woolwich Ferry

In the late 1880s, the people of Woolwich pointed out to the Metropolitan Board of Works that through their rates, they had helped pay for toll bridges in West London that the board had recently purchased and opened to free public use. They insisted that they too should be able to cross the Thames free of charge. In 1884, the board agreed to provide a free ferry and on 23 March 1889 it was opened. Woolwich was decorated with flags and bunting, the streets were lined with volunteers from the local artillery. There was a huge procession preceded by mounted police and followed by local traders and associations with their bands. Lord Rosebery and other members of the newly formed London County Council and other dignitaries travelled in open carriages to declare to the thousands of people gathered, 'The free ferry is open to the public'. That weekend alone, the Great Eastern Railway Company carried 25,000 people to its North Woolwich terminus, most intent on riding the ferry.

John Burns, 1895

In 1963 paddle steamers were replaced by the current serving motor ships. The vessels are named after; James Newman, Mayor of Woolwich between 1923-25; Ernest Bevin, a trade union leader and labour politician whose ashes are buried at Westminster Abbey; and John Burns, a shareholder in the original Woolwich Ferry Company and a trade unionist and politician who played a major part in the infamous London Dock Strike of 1889 and in 1929 coined the phrase, 'The Thames is liquid history' - and how right he is.

Oh and if you're worried about house prices going down Bexley - don't worry, frustratingly for first time buyers like me, they're going up. The pricey arrival of the Elizabeth Line will soon mean that the people like me who already live here, and really appreciate the place, won't be able to afford it anymore.

But I'll leave this post not by lamenting or picking a fight, but by thanking the men and women who came before us, for the pockets of beauty I've come to enjoy and the fascinating history they've left behind.

Woolwich Dockyard (Nicholas Pocock, 1790 National Maritime Museum). the surviving clock house (then newly-built) is seen centre-right, and the Parish Church far left. Left to right along the shoreline: three shipbuilding slips (two survive, much rebuilt, at mast Quay), two dry docks (still survive, much rebuilt) and a further slip (since filled in). Behind the latter stands the large Sail and Mould Loft of 1740, with the Great Storehouse to its rights and the Officer's Terrace (houses with gardens) to the right of that.

FURTHER SOURCES:
https://www.ucl.ac.uk/bartlett/architecture/sites/bartlett/files/48.2_woolwich_dockyard_area.pdf
http://www.portcities.org.uk/london/server/show/conMediaFile.1145/Firemen-tackling-a-blaze-at-the-Surrey-Docks.html
http://content.tfl.gov.uk/jubilee-greenway-route-section-six.pdf
http://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/info/200064/local_history_and_heritage/265/woolwich_ferry_history
https://thamesfacingeast.wordpress.com/2013/12/
http://www.stpeterswoolwich.church/
http://www.greenwich.co.uk/magazine/10496-woolwich-granada-theatre-powis-street/
http://www.glypt.co.uk/tramshed/tramshedhistory/
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p01rjc35
https://londonist.com/london/history/london-s-forgotten-disasters-the-woolwich-pleasure-boat-disaster