Moving to Cardiff felt a little like moving time zones at first - from the fast-paced 'I need to run everywhere and I'm covered in everyone else's tube-sweat' London, to Cardiff where your lungs feel so full of Oxygen it hurts a little bit. It was refreshing and with so little time to enjoy the area, I wasted no time in exploring the sights. With 8 weekends in the city, here's a little list of 14 best bits (I couldn't quite narrow it down to 10).
1) St. Fagans
Just outside the city, about an equidistant 10min drive from Llandaff and Canton, is a gem I didn't know was there. An entire village made up of buildings dating from 14th century Wales to the modern day - and most with a hearty burning fire to welcome you through the door. I felt like I'd fallen into a time capsule, you can buy bread at the bakery there, watch a blacksmith at work, it's the kind of place you could fill with actors and you would fully believe you were there for real. There's plenty of birds flying around, some wonderful buildings and some great bits of history. I particularly liked the tannery, the school and the woollen mill where I got talking to one of the guides. He told me all about his years in London and we traded tales of the city and how nice it is to find ourselves in peaceful Wales at this moment in time. I explored the building's exhibits and on sticking my head in to say goodbye, he said to me very sincerely, 'follow your dreams gal'. What a lovely thing to depart on. I was so blown away I never told him how nice it was, so I hope someone will!
2)Big Pit
If it's a day of Welsh industry heritage for you, then Big Pit is a great day out. With my grandad's background in mining, I wanted the experience for myself. The new multi-media exhibition is great, giving you a feel for what the machines were used for, in the position they would likely have been used. Then you get into the cage with about 20 odd people and journey down the shaft to the mine itself. The beauty of Big Pit is that it's authentic, you're led around by retired miners, so they all know exactly what they're talking about. Although we did learn that mines aren't comfortable places for a man of 6ft 3" - Kamal will testify to that. Head to the showers to get to know more about the personal lives of these men.
3) Taff's Well - Gates to the Valleys
Taff's Well is a cool blast from the past but the downside is you can no longer take a dip. The well is the only thermal spring in Wales. Visitors during the 1800s would enter the brick building that still surrounds it, walk the spiralled staircase within and take a spiritual skinny dip in temperatures that average approx 21 degrees. It's considered to be spiritually significant for it's healing qualities and although you can no longer submerge yourself in the South Wales waters, it's still worth a visit.
4) Castell Coch
Just a stones throw from Taff's Well (2 miles approx) is Wales' own fairytale castle. It was built by William Burges for the 3rd Marquess of Bute, it's pink stone enchants anyone travelling North out of Cardiff. After driving past it on my way to Ystrad Mynach for weeks on my way to football, I finally decided to pay it a visit. I didn't go inside, I had no money with me and it costs £6 to get in, but it was the outside that captivated me. And I bet it looks great in the snow - although I did spectacularly somersault over a hidden tree-stump when backing away to take a good photo, so watch out for those!
5) National Museum of Cardiff / City Hall
If you like animals, then there are a few stuffed ones to get up close and personal with here. The museum is a large space that I'm not convinced is utilised to it's full potential, but it definitely has an impressive collection of art, Welsh pottery and fossils. My favourite painting being the portrait of the blind harpist, John Parry as he appears so lost in the music he is playing.
Its external is impressive, sat alongside the similarly attractive City Hall opposite Gorsedd Gardens which hosts a statue of the famous David Lloyd George, which is also the name of the road leading from the centre to Cardiff Bay. It doesn't take a whole day off your hands but it's worth a couple of hours for sure.
6) Cardiff Castle
As fun for adults as it is for kids. Make sure to grab a headset near the entrance to assist you on your tour. You can walk the walls that acted as an air raid shelter for more than 1800 Cardiff citizens at any one time during WW2, climb the keep and spot original etchings in the plaster half way up, explore the Banquet Hall and Arab Room. One of my favourite things about Cardiff Castle is eyeing up the animals on the surrounding wall, designed by William Burges and carved in 1891 by Thomas Nicholls, who made the eyes so life-like and captivating. Also see if you can spot the red bricks on the outside wall, which act as a marker to show where the original bricks end and the newer rebuilt sections start. I also like the slightly Snow-Queen-esque gothic tower. And if it's military history you're after, then don't miss the Museum of the Welsh Soldier just by the entrance, it's easy to miss!
7) Bute Park/Taff Trail
The plan originally was for me to cycle to work at the BBC but with so much I wanted to see and do, I thought it best to travel by car instead. But I did get out and about on the bike and on foot too. 4 days after moving, I cycled the Taff Trail through Bute Park and across Pontcanna Fields where I'd started pre-season football training with Cardiff City Ladies. The river is safe and shallow enough to paddle out to the middle and lots of families paddle across the weir midway through the park. I spent a few of my afternoons in Cardiff walking around a sun-filled Bute Park, with some nice views of the Castle, a wart-hog made of plants, Pride Festival in August, Roald Dahl's centenary in September and lots of lovely ladybirds when Autumn arrived. There are 3 cafes, Pettigrew's Tea Rooms, The Secret Garden and the Summerhouse with the Summer Street Food Circus in nearby Sophia Gardens. It's definitely a haven to walk around in and there's usually lots going on. And the Taff Trail stretches 55 miles from Cardiff Bay to Brecon, so that's lots of weekends covered!
8) Coffee Barker
If you want the most amazing desert you've ever tasted, then it's a sin not to head to Coffee Barker just opposite the castle. They do a mean breakfast but their deserts are enough for a meal on their own. Twice I headed there for lunch and ate only desert - it's that good. My favourite was definitely the Chocolate Brownie sandwich, with banana and cookie dough ice-cream, crushed oreos and hot chocolate fudge sauce. My mile walk home wasn't enough to walk it off, but it was worth it, to feel European, to sit in the fresh air and enjoy a good feast.
9) Cardiff Bay / Restaurant / Gallery
Cardiff Bay is my favourite part of town and in my opinion, the most picturesque. It's within walking distance of the city centre, but I walked from Canton via Atlantic Wharf. I visited the Norwegian Church Art Gallery which was featuring a craft-fair and local photography exhibition with some great Welsh landmarks. I then revisited when my partner came to stay, after a day of football and very large appetite. We opted for the Bosphorus Turkish Restaurant which juts out on it's own pier over the water. Great food with a glass of wine for reasonable prices, even if the convenient Mermaid Quay parking was a bit on the pricey side. It's a lovely place for a breath of fresh air and the calm of the waves. During summer there's even an artificial beach and ferris wheel too.
10) Ystradgynlais / Cwmtrch
My maternal grandad was born in Upper Cwmtwrch and grew up at the George IV Inn paddling in the stream there. As a young man he then worked down the Ystradgynlais coal mine, following in the footsteps of his father who managed the pit at Abercraf. Cwmtwrch is a pretty village in itself, with a hill to climb to get a better view, but nearby Ystragynlais has lasting reminders of it's coaling past. You'll find a coal truck, lift mechanism and steelwork remains which serves as an ideal picnic spot before heading to the nearby National Showcaves (which you should note closes at 3pm - we just missed them).
11) Henrhyd Falls
Not far from Ystradgynlais, there's time for a short walk. A hilly stroll to Henrhyd Falls is either a way to make sure the kids sleep in the car (which you can park in the free car park) or your antidote to a week's worth of being office-bound. Either way it's worth it. You can even have a climb behind the falls or a paddle if you're feeling brave.
12) Canton
Living in Canton it seems was a good choice. It has arts spaces on offer, as well as a large dining area with live bands and craft beers. Speaking of Craft Beers, just off Cowbridge Rd East, is the Crafty Devil Cellar Bar and Shop, which hosts live bands and events too. I tried and love two of their beers. Their coffee stout 'Safe As Milk' and literal hop-heaven 'White Riot'. I recommend both. If it's cocktails you're after, then Vivo Latino on Cowbridge Road serves an amazing Pina Colada and the staff are friendly too. If all that alcohol leaves you peckish then Calabrisella is he best pizza place in town, and open until 10pm each day. The spinning plates it's served on make it a tough challenge for a meal out for more than two, but once you've managed to cut a piece, you won't mind the effort one bit. I recommend the parma ham and parmesan. If it's somehow too early in the day for pizza, then the Brutons Bakery is cheap and delicious. The cheese and onion pasty is my choice. MMMMMMM.
13) Llandaff
Llandaff is a village hidden in the city. It's marked with a village green and a beautiful cathedral with a history dating back to the 12th century. The ruins of the original are visible, and the newer 18th century building stands proud, although it's also undergone reconstruction and rebuilding. There are some stunning headstones, and some that make you feel as though you've travelled through time to meet the deceased. Parts of the graveyard are overgrown and overcome by nature, but it's authentic. When the sun shines on the sandstone it glows. There's a memorial stone laid in memory of the bomb dropped on January 2nd 1941 during the Blitz raid that claimed 165 Cardiff lives, injured 427 and destroyed parts of the cathedral. The village square is a nice place for a walk, the old Castle gatehouse is nearby. There's a nice Cantonese restaurant on the corner near the green and an artsy gift shop too.
14) Victoria Park / Creperie
On my last morning in Cardiff my parents and I took a stroll to Victoria Park, where I'd already explored on a day I was feeling particularly lonely. There were these beautiful mushrooms hidden amongst the grass and I spent a little too long perhaps, muddying the knees of my jeans as I tried to get a decent photo of them. I'd eyed up the creperie then, but wasn't hungry enough to enjoy it. This time, mum, dad and I ordered two each for good measure. We all had a savoury for starters and a sweet for desert. I had cheese, spinach and tomato, then banana and Nutella. It's definitely worth a visit - particularly if you're feeling hungry or need something to warm you up now Autumn's here. It's family friendly, with books and colouring for the kids, and comfy dining both inside and out. We also happened to sit opposite Suzanne Packer (Tess Bateman from Casualty) so that secretly made my mum's day too!